III Amici
A Superb Dining Experience:
Traditional Italian Dishes, Elegantly Prepared
By Lillian Abbracciamento
Chef/owner, Giovanni-Lavorato, ambles from table to table
at III Amici Ristorante, located at 1700 W. Elizabeth
Ave. in Linden, and asks his loyal customers for an on-the-spot
critique of the dinners before them. And Giovanni is not
just asking. He feels the presentation and the accent
must be just right. "It's a matter of pride,"
Giovanni explains. "Because, basically, this is not
a job. It's an art." Hidden away in a half-industrial,
half-residential portion of Linden, III Amici is a friendly,
warm establishment that features an elegance and sophistication
in its atmosphere, cuisine and wine cellar, but is simultaneously
casual enough for the entire family to enjoy.
The skylights and greenery lend a sunny Italian glow
to the very spacious dining room. Due to the skill and
artistry of its charming and knowledgeable chef/owner,
the establishment has a special reputation. Word-of-mouth
has attracted a regular following to Amici III, including
area corporate patrons and the local mayor, a frequent
visitor. But the main reason for the excitement is the
food. The menu is diversified with unique as well as traditional
presentations from throughout Italy. I was informed that
the restaurant has become known for its Hot Italian Peppers,
which are not on the menu. Those in the know have come
to expect them, however, the peppers were hot, but not
incendiary, the delicate sweetness still tantalizing the
palate. They were sensational.
The breads, actually two kinds, were a perfect complement
to the hot peppers. See if Giovanni will divulge the names
of the bakeries where they pick up these marvelous breads.
The Baby Clams and Linguini, one of the evening's five
or six specials, were a gourmet event, a first, that I
would be hard-pressed to forget. Call ahead to see if
the baby clams, flown in from Italy when available, are
on the menu. These alone would be worth a special trip
to savor. They were tender, moist and flavorful; a delicate
food for the gods - that's as close as I can come to describing
them.
Giovanni has a rare gift: He brings greatness to his
preparations. Even a simple chicken breast was transformed
into Chicken Amici, served with artichoke hearts and vinegar
peppers in a light garlic sauce. The Salmon Picatta, with
lemon and capers, and the Vitello Principessa, veal sauteed
with eggplant, prosciutto and peas, were two other specials
that deserve prominent mention. The steaks are prepared
with many inventive collaborations. III Amici also offers
a wine bar concept in that some of the best wines are
served, if desired, by the glass.
The sweet finale was the perfect conclusion to this
heavenly experience. It included an excellent, traditional
Tiramisu, and, the best of all, a fresh fruit presentation
set aglow in a blue flame, caressed by Sambuca di Romana.
From appetizers to dessert, Giovanni, pride intact, has
all the details just right
